The tufts become more sparse, and rich dark volcanic ash more common as I continue trekking upward in my ridiculous lace up jeans and open sneakers. Finally I reach yet another fence, this one is barbed wire in alarmingly good nick. It reaches as far as my eye can see. Getting over that is going to be brutal.
I stand at the fence and open my heart wide calling out to Popo. “Now what?!”
Without warning the volcanic activity goes nuts! Great darkening plumes of smoke start pumping from his crater, the energy on the mountain shifts abruptly and I hear Linda yelling frantically for me to come down NOW.
“You can’t be serious! After all this, it’s going to end here?!”
“No, it doesn’t end here. Go back to the hotel, you are to stay another night.”
“Ok, but you are going to have to help me get back down again, it took half an hour to climb from Linda and Eduardo to here, they are leaving now, I have to make the trip back to them in minutes.”
A bird calls overhead and flies across my path leading me away from the grass tufts, I follow it and laugh when it leads me to a clear path of hard packed ash that runs straight down the mountain. “Where the heck was this when I was struggling up through the tufts?!”
I set off at a jog, spurred by Linda’s calls, they have left and I don’t think I can find my way back down without them.
I DO make the trip back in just a few minutes and manage to catch up with them as they hare down the path.
The air has changed, it’s charged, colder, darker.
Until this point the weather could not have been more perfect.
I know it won’t rain despite the fact that it has done so every day and night for a week, I am not quite so sure that Popo won’t blow his top, but I’m certain we won’t be hurt if he does.
Eduardo doesn’t have the same sense of security.
I can’t keep up with them, my hips and knees are giving out, I am very grateful for the birds continuing to guide us to paths far easier than the ones we came up on.
Eventually the pain becomes so bad and my joints so wobbly that I stop trying to keep up and slow down to a more comfortable ambling walk, I need all the air I can get at this elevation. I still have a long way to go down the mountain.
The miracles that followed are another story for another time.